Mezcal - Part 2
It only seemed natural that I would progress from wild margarita nights on the beach, to sipping nice tequilas, to finally enjoying the boutique nuances of Mezcal. What I didn’t realize was how amazing Mezcal would be. At its height, it is the most diverse and complex distillate in the world. The descriptors are like a fine wine, including notes like alpine forest, tropical fruit, nuts, caramel minerals and so much more. Made in small batches, to me, it is Burgundy liquor.
In the previous blog we already pointed out that Tequila is not better or even worse than Mezcal, it is a type of Mezcal made from Blue Agave. Mezcal is made from up to 47 different types of agaves and blends. Typically, Mezcal is roasted in large Barbacoa pits to release the sugars for fermentation while Tequila agave is cooked or steamed. Tequila can have different varieties such as Blanco, Reposado, Anejo, and Extra Anejo which represent time spent in oak barrels. Though they exist, oak barrels are pretty much frowned upon when making Mezcal. I didn’t see one barrel when I was on the Mezcal route in Oaxaca. There are many more distinctions, so let’s get started with the 3 categories of Mezcal.
The 3 Categories of Mezcal
Mezcal is divided into 3 production categories... Mezcal, Mezcal Artisanal and Mezcal Ancestral.
Mezcal is the most industrial of the three, allowing high-tech equipment such as autoclaves and diffusers (for roasting), stainless steel fermentation vessels, and continuous column stills. More additions are allowed that aren’t necessarily in their own categories. Mezcal are the volume producers that may be worth a cocktail or two but can never reach the quality of the other two categories. For me they should be avoided.
In my opinion, Artisanal and Ancestral Mezcal are the only authentic kinds of Mezcal. The differences are much slighter between the two than those from industrial Mezcal, and the quality is superior in both equally. Ancestral Mezcal insists on using 100-year-old equipment and techniques. For example, only small clay pots can be used to distill Ancestral Mezcal, while Artisanal can use small copper pots. There are more differences but in general they both exclusively use natural ingredients, and only fire and water are added.
Mezcal States
There are only 9 states in Mexico that can legally produce Mezcal: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Zacatecas, San Luís Potosí, Tamaulipas, Durango and Puebla. However, almost 90% of Mezcals are made in Oaxaca. Even within Oaxaca there are many sub-regions that produce different flavors. This is important to know because Mezcal is a dominant part of the culture there. It is enjoyed at all celebrations from weddings, to soccer matches (it is enjoyed by both spectators and players alike), to religious ceremonies, to the May Huel Mythology. In short, Mexcal is to Oaxaca like wine is to France or Italy.
Agave Types
As I mentioned there are at least 47 different types of Mezcal agave that are very diverse both in appearance as well as in the Mezcal they produce. The first one you will run into is Espadin. Approximately 80% of Mezcal is from the Espadin agave. It is the most like Tequila’s Blue Weber Agave. Espadin is a large producer and can be easily cultivated. Its claim to fame is the large sugar content that produces mezcals with lots of alcohol and richness, with characteristics that vary greatly depending on who makes it and where.
This is where it gets interesting. The range of Agaves that evolved in the desert over a millennium is amazing.To name a few: Tobala, Cupreata, Tepeztate, Arroqueno, Cuixe, Cenzio, Cayote, Madre Cuixe, Tobaziche, Jabali, Mexicano, and Salmiana are some of the most sought after but there are so many more. Most look, smell, and taste different from each other. Just like wine there are blends of agaves they call Ensambles. Pechuga Mezcal is a celebration mezcal where fruits, nuts, and turkey breasts are involved in the distillation.
Tobala is perhaps the darling of these mezcals. It is a small producer with an intense floral nose and moderately balanced fruity flavors. Tepeztate is the rarest, its pina can take up to 30 years to mature and produces 1/3 the amount of a Espadin agave. I find it often has an earthy, forest floor bouquet with tropical fruit nuances. As if these varietal types and blends weren’t enough diversification, the location is also a variant. Cenzio grows in Durango in the north while Tobala grows in the highlands of Oaxaca.
This is where labeling comes into play. Where a tequila bottle usually gives you very little information beyond who makes it, most Artisanal and Ancestral Mezcals labels are very detailed. They include the head Mezcalero, the state and subregion or village it is from, the agave variety, how many years the plant took to mature, how many distillations, the date it was made, the number of bottles that were produced, and anything else the distiller wants to include.
Finally, with all the important efforts toward natural foods and beverages, it should be noted that no distillate is more natural and has a low impact than mezcal. Agave grows naturally in the desert, creating no environmental impact in its farming. It is said that in the production of true Mezcal only fire and water are added.
Myths and Inaccurate Beliefs
Worm in a bottle - I have never seen one and if there actually is a Mezcal out there with a worm in it, it is trying to cash in on this old myth. It is tradition to serve gusano salt and a slice of orange with a mezcal neat. That is as close to this myth as you will come.
Mezcal is always smokey - It is true that most of the best Mezcals are roasted in a Barbacoa pit, however the Mezcaleros take many measures to make sure the smoke is kept under control.
Too much smoke is considered a flaw - Depending on the producer, smoke ranges from slight nuances to none at all.
It is not for cocktails - Nonsense! Try Mezcalritas, Oaxacan Old Fashions, and Mezcal Negroni just to get you started. There are more Mezcal cocktails being created every day!
Mezcal is all the rave now in the USA and Europe but as you can see it can be complicated. Start off with a nice recommended Espedin neat or with a large ice cube. Move up to a nice tobala. Remember, just like wine, if you like a particular producer then try another agave from that producer. If you like an agave type, then try the same from another producer. If all else fails, order a Mezcalrita, you will still be impressed. Before you know it, you will take off to Oaxaca where the beverage and food soar.
Cheers,
Chris
Oaxacan Old Fashioned
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 ounces reposado tequila (preferably El Tesoro)
- 1/2-ounce mezcal (preferably Del Maguey San Luis Del Rio)
- 1 barspoon agave nectar
- 2 dashes Angostura bitters
- Garnish: flamed orange peel
Steps
- Add the tequila, mezcal, agave nectar and Angostura bitters to an Old-Fashioned glass with one large ice cube and stir until well-chilled.
- Flame an orange peel over the top of the drink to express its oils, then garnish with the peel.