San Sebastian to Bordeaux

San Sebastian to Bordeaux
When asked what I thought the best 8–10-day trip would be, my answer has always been immediate. “Well, if you are a food and wine person San Sebastion to Bordeaux absolutely!” Most people know that Bordeaux is the Mecca of wine. You may prefer wines from other regions and nations, but you can’t deny that with 700+ years of history, stunning chateaus and epic wines, it has led the way all these centuries. However, far less people know that San Sebastian is perhaps the greatest food town in the world. It has the most Michelin Stars per capita in the world and the most chefs per capita in the world as well. Ask any fine chef you know; San Sebastian is amazing. 

     The one thing most people don’t know is that San Sebastian is only a quick 2 ½ hour drive from Bordeaux. Even less by train. A quick look at a map shows that Bordeaux is tucked in the very southwest corner of France while San Sebastion is at the top corner of Spain. It is one of the easiest two-city connections in Europe.

     Start in the storybook town of San Sebastian. It is a beautiful 12th century village cozied up to a gorgeous small beach. One of the most romantic places in the world to take your partner as long as you are not too shy, after all it is a European beach. But what really separates San Sebastion is the fact that it is really not Spanish or Castillion. Nestled up to the Pyrenees it is Basque giving it its own personality. Here Tapas is called “pintxos” and it is arguably the best in the world. Better than Barcelona, Madrid, Seville, you name it. The old town is packed with pintxos bars and one night of hopping from one to the other will make a believer out of you. The wine is very good and inexpensive because there is no tax on wine of any kind. Just 2 to 3 euro will get you a nice glass of Verdejo or Tempranillo (very civilized). The tradition of hopping from one bar, having one pintxos and a glass of wine, then on to the next is an experience that can’t be missed. 

     San Sebastian’s restaurants are second to none. If you are an Anthony Bourdain fan you should know that this was one of his favorite places. His last program was on San Sebastian and its phenomenal chefs, including the great Juan Mari Arzak. Arzak is a three-star Michelin restaurant and truly one of the great restaurants of the world. Juan Mari explains that the Basques pintxos and stews are the foundation of all the modern San Sebastian restaurants. Another incredible food experience is Asador Etxebarri. In a small village in the Pyrenees, Etxebarri is only open for lunch. Chef Victor Arguinzoniz cooks everything over amazing grills of his own invention. The result is that Etxebarri was awarded #2 in the world of the Pelegrino Top 50 Restaurants of 2024. These two restaurants, as amazing as they are, just scratch the surface of this culinary wonderland.

     What can I say about Bordeaux, there are too many great things. The town itself is the fourth largest city in France and for a long time was the wealthiest part of the nation.  A port on the Garonne River its architecture, churches, and plazas are world famous. It has one of the longest walking streets in Europe lined with restaurants and shops. Of course, what Bordeaux is most famous for are the great Chateaus and vineyards that have delighted us for more than seven centuries. To give you a sense of the history of grape growing in Bordeaux, the tower at Chateau Latour was built in 1331. As some may know, the wine region is separated into two parts, the left bank and the right bank of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. Of course, all Bordeaux are blends come from either the “Left Bank” (Medoc) where Cabernet Sauvignon is king or the “Right Bank” (Saint Emilion and Pomerol) where Merlot is the dominant grape. Added to these to amazing places is Pessac Leognan where great Bordeaux white wine is produced. These wines are typically blends of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and are second to no white wine in the world. If you like dessert wines Sauternes where botrytis Semillon is dominant is worth the visit.

     If you haven’t figured out that I am one of the most fortunate winemakers in the world yet, then perhaps I should mention my day with Jean Philippe Delmas at Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion. Jean-Philippe is the third-generation winemaker at Haut Brion spanning over 100 years. Approximately 37 vintages for Georges, 43 for his son Jean-Bernard, with 20 – and counting – for his grandson Jean-Philippe. I met his Jean-Bernard 25 years ago. He was adamant about how everything had to be done by hand. Tilling of the soil, pruning and harvesting. The grapes were double hand sorted, and wine was gently racked. He even had a Sequin Moreau barrel station in his courtyard So he could watch over the production of each and every barrel for his sacred wine.  The attention to detail and craftsmanship was unbelievable.  What an impression on a young winemaker. I quickly learned that it is not what he did but his attitude that I had to emulate. You can see how excited I was when I found out I could have lunch with Jean Philippe at the Chateau.

     The lunch was stellar at Haut Brion. Served by Butlers with white gloves on antique dinnerware that was clearly older than I was.  This first-class treatment obviously didn’t represent who I was but who they were. This is how they roll, and I really appreciated it.  The whites were sensational.  We had the 2012 La Mission Blanc and the 2011 Haut Brion Blanc and once again they reminded me that White Bordeaux could be second to none. To me Montrachet though amazing is only their equal. 

     Even as enamored as I was with the whites, I had to take a peek at the reds that were resting in their antique decanters. 1998 La Mission Haut Brion and (shit) 1989 Haut Brion... WOW! Elevating things a bit, Dillon, the President of the parent company, Domaine Clarence, joined us for the tasting.  “I don’t get to try these wines very often mind if I join you?” I was so honored I could hardly speak. All I could do was rave about the 89’ Haut Brion. Deep smoke, black fruits, black truffles, and currants. This is a complete wine, all elements come together beautifully. Ridiculous concentration and after +30 years, a finish that I will always remember. 

  All the great chateaus in Bordeaux were built long before planes, trains and automobiles so it had to have accommodation for its illustrious visitors. This accommodation had to be lush because the only visitors allowed were either Royalty or the trade. They were close to all the others. The good news is that just lately this has loosened up some.  I have noticed that Chateaus like Haut Brion, Pavie, and Y’quem are now taking visitors’ reservations over the internet. Chateau Lynch Bages has a visitor center, and more chateaus are following suit. Now everyone can visit this amazing region and experience some of the greatest wines of the world. And, hey, the food in Bordeaux is pretty good too!

   I have traveled all around the world and have not yet found two connecting cities that knock it out of the culinary and wine park quite like this route. I can’t promise you lunch at Haut Brion or dinner with Juan Mari Arzak, but I do believe that with some effort, you can create experiences that you will remember for the rest of your life.  For me life is about making lasting memories and with this trip, the lasting memories are guaranteed.

Cheers,
Chris