Over the centuries, history has been crazy for the noble Chenin grape. Both the ceiling and floor have been tested throughout the ages and with them, the quality and reputation of Chenin Blanc has reigned. There are times when it has been considered one of the greatest white wine grapes of the world, second to none. However, there have also been times when the market has pushed the varietal to a volume oriented towards an inexpensive pleasing wine of little to no importance. Of course, I am only interested in the heights that Chenin has reached and will reach in the future. Personally, I love working with the grape. Chenin Blanc has been deemed one of the most terroir-reflective grapes, thanks to its rather versatile flavor profile. Because of this, the winemaker influence, soil characteristics, and climatic conditions are often highly reflected within the final wine. What winemaker wouldn’t at least be intrigued by this grape? But before I dive into what I like about Chenin, I think a look at its lineage will help the cause.
Chenin is one of the true French grapes. It has been traced back to 800 AD from the Anjou region in the Loire Valley. It seems to have no twin in Italy or any other part of the world that precedes it. Sauvignon Blanc is probably a sibling of Chenin but not a parent. So, for 1200 years Chenin grew up in the Loire Valley, and like most vineyards of the time, it was run by the Abbeys of the area and enjoyed by the royalty in the Castles that the Valley is now famous for. In the 12th century, the Abbeys of Savennieres seemed to take on a large role in viticulture which has continued through today.
Fast forward to the early 20th century, when an important step was taken by Victor Huet who took on the challenge of producing uncompromising wines in the Vouvray region. He developed land which is now considered the finest ridge in the Vouvray region and produced world renown wines both dry and semi dry. Huet remains the one winery that has produced amazing Chenin throughout the 20th Century.
As I said, Chenin Blanc has had its struggles as well. Particularly in the late 60’s and 70’s where it fell prey to the market in both America and France. At this time some may remember that Krug was making inexpensive off-dry Chenin that grew to become the largest by volume varietal in California. In the hot California sun, winemakers could get 8 tons an acre with full ripeness, making it one of the cheapest varietals to make. Other big wineries joined in on the fun and the next thing you know, Chenin Blanc was synonymous with non-descript, easy drinking, affordable wines. France was not spared by the change of market. Vouvray extended its AOC borders, raised its yields and mimicked the American market with residual sugar, even in the dry wines. Relying on their reputation they could get $8 to $10 dollars a bottle because they were “French,” but in my opinion the quality of most Vouvray’s were not much better than their California counterpart.
It turns out that this Chenin explosion was of course a fad, similar to White Zinfandel, Two Buck Chuck and other volume wines. The world market was searching for better wines. For Chenin Blanc this meant revisiting its formal glory.
It should be said that Huet and a couple of other wineries in Vouvray never stopped producing fine wines. They didn’t leave us, we left them. When it became time for a revival, they were there all along. Savenniers actually became a focal point of grape growing. In 1977, Nicholas Joly left his job for JP Morgan in New York and joined his family winery that owned the famed Coulee de Serrant vineyard. Enamored with the holistic Swiss farming techniques, he was the first producer to encompass Biodynamics to grape growing. He even wrote the book on it and now Biodynamics is a standard organic vineyard technique in France and around the world. In South Africa discovered that their finest white varietal was probably Chenin and now makes Chenin that are of the highest quality. Even the Baja Guadalupe Valley in Mexico makes some great Chenins.
In modern times, Vouvray and Savenniers, as well as other valley Chenins like Samur and Montlouis are outstanding. What is really amazing, is because of the biodynamic heritage that Nicolas Joly brought to the table, the Loire has become the center of the universe for the development of “Natural” wines and Pet-Nat (petillant natural) semi sparkling wines.
What I love about Chenin is that it is respected in both the vineyard and cellar, it truly is a terroir-reflective grape. The terroir in Vouvray has the unique combination of Chalk and Clay along with Tuffeau (a local soft limestone) in the soil and the climate features winds coming off the river. All in all, it produces complex wines of mouthwatering acidy, ripe apples, pears, with great minerality and concentration, candy wax mouthfeel and even chamomile nuances. Montlouis is walking distant across the river and has similar characteristics though perhaps a touch less concentrated.
Savenniers is rockier with schist, shale, seams of volcanic rock and sandstone along with wind-blown soils. The yields are more meager, producing deeper more austere wines, with generally more floral notes. Chenin takes on a huge range of flavors from lemon-lime, green plum and green apple to peach, quince and a briny minerality. These wines can age and develop the most elegant expression of the variety, featuring honey, acacia and ripe apples.
So, what is in it for a winemaker that makes pretty darn good Bordeaux varietals? Why Chenin? The answer is simple: I love the grapes. I have been to the Loire many times and if I was sentenced to a life of Chevre and Chenin from there I would be just fine. Because I am a true terrorist at heart, I am dying to find out what true Chenin can bring to Washington State. Stay tuned for Upchurch’s upcoming 2023 Single Vineyard Series Chenin!
A few last-minute notes. The Loire Valley is storybook land. A drive along the river shows off some of the most beautiful rural landscape and vineyards in France. There are whole towns dedicated to Chevre cheese makers. The most beautiful and romantic Castles in France are in Chambord, Chenonceau and Villandry. Stop off or stay in Chinon and Amboise, or continue on to Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, all while sipping on Chenin, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc.
When I am not drinking Mezcal in Mexico I ask for Guadalupe Valley Chenin. Fine Mexican cuisine is mostly seafood with spice. What could be better than a local mouthwatering Chenin?!